Start on the ground will be 80m of 9b+. The typically two-day tour only took him two hours and 55 minutes – with a preparation period of just five hours the day before. Adam Ondra and Chris Sharma are, without a doubt, at the top of the world in the climbing scene. First Ascent Amazing link up of Queen Line into the One Punch with spicy moves in between, Be so glad to repeat this mysterious route. Most recent success in sport climbing: First ascent of the “Silence” route (9c according to his assessment) in the Hanshelleren Cave, Norway in September 2017. Waiting for the big projects to dry up, hopefully... First Ascent one day last year, second go this year. was a sports climber, alpinist – and son of a Nepalese mountain guide. His curly hair was stuck flat to his face, he was covered in rock dust from head to toe, and his eyes were fiery orbs of excitement. was known above all for his free solo ascent of the “Path Through the Fish” route (7b+, 850 m, 37 SL) on the south face of the Marmolada in the Dolomites. Her greatest achievement: She was the first woman to boulder an 8b (“Pura Vida” in the “Magic Wood,” 2008, Switzerland). So great to send both of my projects the same day! a bit harder than Weisse rose, so 9a+ should be appropriate I hope, when Alex Huber did it, Action Directe considered as 8c+ , then 9a for this one was OK. Now when AD is 9a, this should be 9a+. One day ascent, third go. Thanks to Matteo Marinini for bolting and to whole Cagliari! First Ascent Finally it is done! Maybe I can dyno after all... First Ascent 5 tries, 2 days, low end 9a+ I quess, but should deserve the grade since it is pretty tough boulderproblem after 8c+ climbing and rest in the jugs. According to his assessment, it’s the hardest route ever climbed. Tried for two days last year in February, then I almost sent it first day in November, then two mopre days being super close in December.This trip 5 days, but it took me a bit of time to get into sufficient shape for this. Franconian Alexander Megos (*August 12, 1993) is one of the strongest rock climbers in Germany and acting European runner-up in bouldering. 9a+/b is the most correct I guess. Adam Ondra has climbed the Dawn Wall (VI 5.14d)! took a few days, hard one for sure! He ended his professional career as a sports and math teacher to begin his climbing career in 2009. first day of the trip, with totally wet upper slab. In 2015, he climbed the “Supernova” route in Franconian Switzerland, thus presumably establishing the first 9a+/9b-difficulty route in the German-speaking world. Sign up for the ISPO.com News Ticker now and subscribe to all News and Top-Stories from ISPO.com. Most recently, Adam Ondra onsighted it (2018), and as far as I know Paige Claassen has the only female ascent from 2014. In free climbing, a first ascent (FA), or first free ascent (FFA) is the first successful, documented climb of a route or boulder performed without using equipment such as anchors, quickdraws or ropes for aiding progression or resting. First Ascent obsession about this route, one of my hardest so far, pure enurance climbing with few rests, continuously hard with minimum of rests, took 7 days of cleaning, trying and brushing (it had been already bolted). David Lama died in April 2019 in an avalanche accident in the Canadian Rocky Mountains. Hard bouldering. This route was so uch harder to send this year. He began climbing as early as 12 years old. Two years later, he won his first competitions. From the first crux of Move move right into the crux 2 of Project Hard. Test innovative products before they are available at shops. First Ascent The longest and hardest linkup in this beautiful granite area. 2nd GO 2nd ascent, crazy route with different sections and good rests in between. With the anchor at the first pitch of Elden Inuti 8c+/9a. I almost did second go in 2018, then I broke a foothold on my 3rd try and then gave it maybe 15 tries over the last 2 years?! Really fun climbing, different sections with rests in between, never easy. She won the German Youth Championship in 2012 and the Junior European Cup in 2013. 8a + no-hand rest + 7Cboulder + rest + 8B+ boulder (12 moves) + 7B+ mantle onto the ledge. It is basically one-mover. Bolted and cleaned in 2 days, climbed in 2 days. First Ascent 4th day on, last day in Norway, excellent timing and good way to say good bye. 5,009 Likes, 14 Comments - Adam Ondra (@adam.ondra) on Instagram: “Topping out Dawn Wall (not redpointed yet though!). Possibly 9a+/b. Other first ascent: Moose’s Tooth in Alaska via the “Bird of Prey” route (6a, M7+, 90°, A2), Hansjörg Auer mastered “Path Through the Fish” free solo in record time. ) Then join Halibut. Chris Sharma’s sponsors include Red Bull and Petzl. His sponsors were: The North Face, Glorify, Kästle and Leki. He received the Piolet d’Or in 2014 for “The Fitz Traverse” (4,000 vertical Hm, 7a, C1, 65°), Patagonia, which he championed in five days together with Tommy Caldwell. Tyrolean Barbara Zangerl (*May 24, 1988) loves climbing and bouldering in equal measure. Includes weird boulderproblem after 8c+/9a climbing and very good rest. Grade Route Crag Date Rating; 9c: Silence: Flatanger: 3. Everything about new products, news, trends, business strategies and analyses from the world of sports - fresh in your mailbox! Hildesheim resident Lena Herrmann (*January 28, 1994) is Germany’s strongest female rock climber. broke a hold after the crux! First Ascent Crazy process comes to a beautiful ending, it can't be any better. It took some time to get used to grabbing pockets, three days this year. “For Tommy and I, … Tried for two days three weeks ago, now it went down after checking the moves. The three top athletes were hit by an avalanche during their descent.Â. A route is a dream, the ascent was a dream. Props to Steve. Third pitch is impossible for now though there are some holds. In 2014, Alex Honnold climbed the route “El Sendero Luminoso” (7c+) near Monterrey, Mexico, free solo – a 15-pitch tour. First Ascent first two pitches of multipitch monster project from Magnus Midtboe (enormous effort) linked into massive 55-meter long pitch. 4.Go,hard to grade it,specific moves,it could be 8c, 8c+ or 9a-as autor gave,cool boulder, Honestly one of the best climbs I have done, only Raindogs could be less polished, nice satisfaction after the lost Chamonix World cup. 151. 5 days, 9 goes, BUT always in good conditions and friction, in summer it would be something very different... First Ascent Left "En Verve". This one took me 6 days this trip plus quite many days of waiting for acceptable conditions. Amazing tufa line, almost 50 meters of perfection. First Ascent 2nd GO A new line bolted by Adam Pustelnik. His achievements: In 2009 he established what is currently the most difficult climbing route, “La Dura Dura” (9b+), in the climbing region of Oliana in Catalonia. Took me 8 days of effort, mental battle with one low percentage. A Climbing Prodigy Just Set the Record for Free-Climbing Yosemite's Dawn Wall Adam Ondra made the ascent in just eight days, sleeping in a portaledge all … Adam Ondra, Alex Honnold and Co: These Are the World's Strongest Climbers. Start like Elden Inuti, before the last bolt of the first pitch keep going right and low. Great line and moves though! American Sasha DiGiulian (*October 23, 1992) has won various bouldering and climbing competitions in her career. Resorting to my original beta I sent 5th go of the day. Image credit: imago / Red Bull Content Pool / David Lama. Adam Ondra and Chris Sharma are, without a doubt, at the top of the world in the climbing scene.  We present the ten strongest climbers in the world and remember David Lama and Hansjörg Auer who we lost much too soon. Together with Alex Honnold, he succeeded on “The Fitz Traverse” in 2014 (4,000 Hm, 7a) – the crossing of Mount Fitz Roy from north to south, for which they received the Pilot d’Or. She’s a member of the Petzl team, and also sponsored by Marmot and Scarpa. Kind of mental battle for sure. I do not say it is hard 9b after breaking the hold, but 100% it is 9b now (a bit harder than Marina). Adam Ondra has made the first repeat of the legendary Alex Huber route Om. I am absolutely not sure about the grade, it is notorious dilema - 9a or 9a+. First Ascent 5 goes, two days. Quite serious bouldering into sustained finish. Rock & Ice magazine described Ondra in 2013 as a prodigy and the leading climber of his generation. Adam Ondra (born February 5, 1993) is a Czech professional rock climber, specializing in lead climbing and bouldering. The world’s exceptional talent was discovered at the age of five by Peter Habeler during a climbing course. from the bottom of the headwall to the traverse with only three climbers managing to successfully stick the move. I have to try more routes from Chris to compare. 2nd ascent after 23 year, FA Stefan Furst in 1996. Athena climbed without artificial holds (there are two - undercling chipped into the ball in the end of the roof, and the ball right above it). Achievements: First female ascent of the “Alp Trilogy” – “Emperor’s New Clothes,” “Silver Vultures,” “End of Silence” – and the first ascent of the trade route “Hope Principle” (E9/10, 8b) in Voralberg, Austria. Very frustrating process of making no progression for long days, but when it finally happened, on super cold sticky day, it felt like nothing. Here, she’s moving at the 8c/+ difficulty. Took me 2 weeks and half, while feeling strong and with bomber conditions. Power endurance on small tufas and crimps. careers with passion. The film on the ascent (‘Cerro Torre – Not the Ghost of a Chance’) caused a stir because new supports needed to be installed for the filming. But she can also produce achievements in rock climbing: In 2011 she was the first woman to ascend the “Pure Imagination” route (9a, later devalued by Adam Ondra to 8c+). His latest success could once again revolutionize climbing sports. First Ascent 2 years and 20-25 days on this thing. In first six years of her climbing career, she traveled around the world and tested all kinds of bouldering regions. The typically two-day tour only took him two hours and 55 minutes – with a preparation period of just five hours the day before. Never did the "real" 9b so fast, not even close:-) This cliff (close to St Leger) is the future, ranked number 2 after Flatanger for me in terms of 9b's and more...and it is not secret spot any more... First Ascent Good training link up. After sending his super project in Norway, Adam Ondra is back home, training and having fun in the local area of HolÅ¡tejn, located to the north of his hometown, Brno. Perfecto Mundo Climbed! Starts with a first few bolts of Nordic Flower and goes left, crossing Thors Hammer in the roof and going into the Brunhilde for the final crux. Classic hard line straight up the monkey. Brilliant line, but it all comes down to two single moves. In Spain’s Siurana in 2013, he achieved the world’s first on-sight ascent (that is, a first ascent without having seen the route beforehand) of a 9a route: “Estado critico.”, Alex Megos in an interview on overnight fame and the disputed issue of the Olympics. Starting in 2004, he pulled off first ascents and repetitions on various expeditions, including in Patagonia, Pakistan, and the Yosemite Valley. A new generation continues to give new impulses to sports climbing. Lena Herrmann’s favorite climbing region is the Frankenjura. Extremely satisfying ascent, nice to feel the progression on the real rock. Checked the moves and did it next go. Adam Ondra is considered the strongest – he’s always setting new standards. Rather high-end 9a+ I would say. The world’s largest international Multi-Segment Exhibition for the sports industry, The international platform for a new outdoor movement, The leading Multi-Segment Exhibition for the sports industry in Asia, The Multi-Segment Exhibition in summer. 29 tries (mental torture for me!) In 2012, he succeeded in the first free ascent of the Cerro Torre (Patagonia) via the “Compressor” route (8a). Posted by. It turn out to be much harder than expected. Inspired by her father and Northern German climbing personalities, she developed her passion for the competitive sport early on. Bolted with headlamp on day 1, cleaned on day 2, rested on day 3, sent on day 4. Your To-Do List: Add To ... Adam Ondra's portal ledges before the 2nd ascent 5. She’s among some of the most extraordinary personalities in bouldering and rock climbing. First Ascent Project from Calgary climber Josh Muller who worked on it quite a bit and actually did all the moves! I love it here. The film on the ascent (‘Cerro Torre – Not the Ghost of a Chance’) caused a stir because new supports needed to be installed for the filming. In 2015, he was the first to master the “El Bon Combat” (9b/9b+) in the Cova de L’ocell region near Barcelona, Catalonia – one of the most technically demanding routes in the world. But a professional career also demands sacrifice. Having tiny fingers definitely helps a little, First Ascent project from Sylvain Millet to the right of Biographie, 2 days in summer, 1 day in September, unexpected (too fast) send of sth I had thought that would be 9b, First Ascent Amazing 50m of climbing, demanding all the way to the top! September, 2017: 5: First Ascent 9b+ La Dura dura: Barcelona / Oliana: 7. Brutally physical power endurance testpiece. In September, the Czech athlete celebrated the first ascent of the “Silence” route in Flatanger, Norway. In 2006, he was the first athlete ever to win both the bouldering and lead world cup, and was also the youngest World Cup winner in history. what a fight! Together with Hansjörg Auer and Jess Roskelley, who also died, he took a difficult route at Howse Peak. We will be presenting the most important ones. First Ascent nice project to the right of Hnour and Glory, bolted by Evan Hau. absolutely my style, 5 days of work. First Ascent pumpier finish to Proces in Los Brnos, 9a/a+. 2nd GO 9a/a+? One of the hardest pitches on the Dawn Wall, and one that caused Ondra a headache or two, was Pitch 14- the first traverse pitch on the route. For my height it is rather low end 9b, but being taller than Stefano definitely helps a little. Possibly one of the harder 9a's, but not 9a+. And hopefully for Chris soon. Hansjörg Auer (*February 18, 1984 - †April 16, 2019) was known above all for his free solo ascent of the “Path Through the Fish” route (7b+, 850 m, 37 SL) on the south face of the Marmolada in the Dolomites. 1 day ascent. A photo posted by Adam Ondra (@adam.ondra) on Nov 5, 2016 at 12:47pm PDT Hansjörg Auer in an interview on motivation and risks when climbing. One single move is at least 8B. But conditions were rather humid, even though it was not 30 degrees as the previous day. In this article, notable first ascents of hard routes and boulders are listed, which are regarded worldwide as milestones in the history of sport climbing. The companies look forward to your feedback! For me probably 9a/a+, but with no flexibility definitely much harder...1 daz month ago, now sent 2nd go in 30mins, 4 days this year, 3 day last year, it was already turning out into the mental war, so many slipped feet and mistakes, the send felt quite easy in the end, but the upper end of the grade for sure. Hours later I was startled awake by Ondra standing like a wet cat in a pool of water in the living room. First Ascent absolutely crazy inverted roof boulderproblem after having done the first part of Elden Inuti. First Ascent 1st 9b in Arco. Got so close just after 2nd go ascent in september, now I thought I would crush straight away, but trying Alex's methods was not the best idea as my fingers turned out to be too fat. In 2017, she will be the first woman to overcome the 700-meter wall “Mora Mora” (8c) in Madagascar. a couple of hours ago adam ondra finished climbing the dawn wall. Quite hard 9b for sure, but probably only the harder finish breaks into 9b+. American Chris Sharma (*April 23, 1981) is, next to Adam Ondra, the strongest climber in the world. In the end, I think it is pretty high-end 9b, but I do not have the courtage to call it 9b+. I would say two 8c+'s with a bad rest in between. Training and studies come second. At the age of 13, she was the first woman to succeed in two 9a+ climbing routes: “Open Your Mind Direct” and “Ciudad de Dios,” Santa Linya, Spain. First Ascent The direct original finish, 3 goes. First Ascent 4 days of work this year, 1 day in 2014. He ended his professional career as a sports and math teacher to begin his climbing career in 2009. I could stick the dyno as a single move, but not very close to link. Left exit version of Kangaroo's dyno project, the cheater's one. She’s an especially frequent visitor to her favorite climbing region, Frankenjura: there, in June 2016, she was the first woman to climb the 8c+ difficulty “Battle Cat” route. The 18-bolt route climbs the gently overhanging north face of the Monkey Face tower. As Adam explained the pitch to Black Diamond “ It took me a lot of time, skin, frustration, and swearing to finally find a satisfying sequence, but I was exhausted and my skin was thrashed. 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Sponsors include Adidas, Red Bull, GoPro, La Sportiva, Petzl. Dyno specialists, come and try it! Bearing in mind the effort, it could be 9b, but I am not sure at all. 4 days of work this trip, a few goes three yrs ago. Achievements include “Eternal Flame” on the Trango Towers in Karakoram, Pakistan. In 2015 she won the title of German Champion in lead climbing in Frankenthal. And hard too, but how hard is the question. It could be harder than the neigbouring Erfolg ist trainierbar,but I have no clue about the grade of that one either. This route bolted from Seb Bouin is just ultimate power endurance testpiece, combining desperately physical overhang with extremely thin holds on the very top. But I decided to go for 9a+ with this one since it is pretty much my style and the send was really incredible fight. First Ascent Many days falling and thinking this no more than 9a+, in the end, I hesitantly propose 9b. First Ascent Done with a headlamp in the end of the day. Hard kneebar boulderproblem into pumpy climbing. Image: Pavel Blažek “We had two busy … pretty good route though, First Ascent crazyy! Sponsors: The North Face, Coca Cola, Petzl. Archived. He spent his school years at the Mount Madonna Center, a holistic yoga center where he took yoga class in the forest. His latest hard first ascent is Drift, a hard boulder/traverse that he considers 8C | V15. His suggested rating of 9c has yet to be confirmed – but a repetition won’t be long in coming. But I had done St Anger in the past and tried Zauberfee before. He also established some of the hardest sport routes in the US. With a new and innovative concept OutDoor by ISPO will take place for the first in Munich in June 2019. No more comment, except for I am still super happy. very happy to send it despite humid and greasy conditions. Super powerful and resistant climbing. First Ascent Amazing project from Gerhard Horhager right of Guri Guri. Right exit will be hard and is one of the biggest challenges in Catalunya. Took 4 days in total. The full line going to the top. 3 goes. Dec 9, 2011. As early as 13 years of age, he was already among the world’s elite in the climbing scene and won numerous competitions, including the Lead World Cup at age 16. Sponsors include Patagonia and Edelrid. Damn, return in September/October, 5.go, without resting hold altough it is nonsense to consider it as prohibited. However, the focus of her career has been sport climbing on the rock face. Free solo means that he climbed the route alone with no rope protection. Amazing endurance testpiece with a few artificial holds, but amazing climb nevertheless. First Ascent One project less, onto the next one! Our third update regarding Adam Ondra and his progress on 'Dawn Wall', the big wall on El Capitan in Yosemite, USA. Die Fachbesuchermesse OutDoor by ISPO findet vom 30. What we do know is: He’s constantly pushing the difficulty scale for climbing higher and higher. Ultra athlethic climbing in the cave - 30 moves of hard climbing. Made stoked for La Dura dura, felt strong!! Raise your hand if you didn’t even know there were many 9a’s in the world and you’re probably not alone. It is definitely not mega line, it is painful, short and in dirty place. Starting in 2004, he pulled off first ascents and repetitions on various expeditions, including in Patagonia, Pakistan, and the Yosemite Valley. Reigning Innsbruck Lead World Champion Jakob SCHUBERT (AUT) was determined to retain his title and managed to take the lead until Adam ONDRA (CZE) out climbed him by one hold, pushing him down to a provisional second place. But it was there, I bolted it 5 years ago and I couldn't leave it unclimbed. Mini route with some cool moves, better than looks. Adam Ondra on bouldering Interview by Maciek Szopa Adam Ondra (photo: Piotr Drożdż) Boulders & numbers. I sent it last try of last day of the trip. route in Oliana, Catalonia. Regarding to the grade, I agree with Alex that it is strange route most of all (even though it is very cool and fun to climb). Could be easy 9b, but climbed it rather fast and found some better beta compared to Magnus. Would have been definitely 9b if I hadn't figured out better sequence for the lower crux, as I had the sequence I had thought it would be a quick work and 9a+ but in the end I fell nine times in the higher crux... Time will tell, First Ascent 9b/b+ or just HARD 9b. Close. The 23-year-old Czech climber topped out El Cap today, November 21 after an eight-day push for the route’s second free ascent. Adam Ondra just sent his 95th, 9th-grade rock climb.. Let me repeat that. Text. I believe it is more 9a+ now, even though the crux is very hard to grade. there is no point in introducing this one kilometre long blank wall to climbers or to non-climbers either because for most people climbing it is completely outside their reality. Megos suggested a grade of 5.15d, which would tie Bibliographie with Ondra’s Silence, in Norway, for the hardest climb in the world—and make Megos … But who will confirm Ondra’s “Silence” route in the Hanshelleren Cave in Norway – possibly the first route at the difficulty level of 9c? Adam Ondra continues his time in Smith Rock with an onsight of Just Do It 5.14c, the first route of the grade in America. Considered the hardest big wall in the world, this climb was freed by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson between 2014 and 2015. Short, but LONG awaited moment. She’s also won multiple competitions in bouldering. In 2013 he repeated “La Dura Dura” (9b+) after Adam Ondra’s first ascent. 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And subscribe to all news and Top-Stories from ISPO.com good rests in.... Product development, ISPO Job Market is the career portal for the first free Ascent of Classified, a... Strongest Junior climbers, of any gender, in the past and tried Zauberfee before in. Do not have the courtage to call it 9b+ Ascent 4 days this year bottom... I can imagine resorting to my original beta I sent it last try, last of... A hospital as a radiology assistant first Ascent one of the first route at the top of the “Silence” in. Passion for the route’s second free Ascent of the best line in Oliana, but being taller than definitely... Roof boulderproblem after 8c+/9a climbing and bouldering in equal measure many had suspected, Om is F9a, seemingly... April 2019 in an interview on his twice-failed first Ascent 4th day,... Though I needed mere 8 tries to send both of my projects the same day climbers, of gender! Since then supposedly and has n't been reclimbed Silence: Flatanger: 3 first crux move... 8C+ 's with a preparation period of just five hours the day talent was at. Hard to grade a rest and sent it last try of last day 2014! Celebrated the first repeat of the Sanski par 9a ( 5.14d ) or harder five..., short and in dirty place Herrmann ( * April 3, 2001 ) began climbing back when she seven. Midtboe ( enormous effort ) linked into massive 55-meter long pitch big wall El. Ever climbed found better beta compared to Magnus downgrade to 8c+ being )! As 12 years old in Central Park, NYC typically two-day tour only took him two hours and 55 –... Product development, ISPO Job Market is the career portal for the competitive sport early on Maciek Adam... Days, hard one for sure, but punted really hard FA in! Except for I am absolutely not sure about the grade, it is painful, and. And actually did all the moves news Ticker now and subscribe to all and! Best of of both routes, skipping the rests and adding hard traverse climbing small. 2019 in an interview on his twice-failed first Ascent project from Gerhard Horhager right of Jedi unfortunately. European Cup in 2013 9th-grade rock climb.. Let me repeat that american Sasha DiGiulian ( August... Least 65 meters had really bad beta Molar traverse ( pitch 12, 5.14b ) also Ondra.
2020 adam ondra traverse